Naps, Kinks, Coils, and Curls

It's been a MINUTE ladies

2010-06-11T13:33:00.000-04:00

Yes...I've been gone for months and I've missed this place and you guys! For those of you that don't know, I was involved in a very serious car accident that almost took my life a few months ago. I don't want to go into details, but I'm on the mend, doing much better, and trying to get back into the daily grind of things. I've finally gone back to work (but only part-time), and I want to get back into the swing of things with this blog. So please bare with me while I work on getting my mojo back.

God Bless

NCC

I know I've been MIA.....

2009-10-21T16:32:00.000-04:00

It's been almost a month since I've written a post, and I'm sorry that I've been neglecting you all and this space. I'm in the middle of purchasing a new home, packing, moving dealing with a contractor, work, family, the whole nine yards. To say I'm stressed out is an under statement!!!! I'm so stressed out I can't tell if I'm coming or going, and I'm so feeling the effects. Between meeting with my realtor, contractor, and mortgage broker, I've been ripping and running for the past month and it appears not to be slowing down any time soon. Since I've staying with relatives, I don't have wireless internet connection, so that makes getting on here even more difficult.

Since I'm staying with family, and I'm WAAAAAAY the hell out in Gaithersburg MD, and I'm working in Crystal City, VA so that metro ride in the morning is NO JOKE!!! My commute has gone from 30-45 min to 1hour 1.5 hours on the train. And don't let the red line have delays....I feel like Gillian going on a three hour tour!

Because of the commute, I'm keeping is super simple with my hair. Twists are my only style right now. Partly because I refuse to get up any earlier in the morning just to do my hair, and partly because I'm so stressed out, that I don't have the time, energy, or patience to deal with it right now. I know in one of my "fuck it" moods I'd whip the scissors out and take it back down to a fade in a minute. This way, my hair is done, its out of my way, I'm not overly concerned about how it looks, its neat and a ready to go style that only needs re-doing every 2-3 weeks. Currently, I wear the twists for 1 week, then a twist out for a week, wash deep condition, and repeat. That's basically it.

Now I must say this....I've been using some raw avocado butter on top of the Qhemet Burdock root Butter crème and I don't have to reapply ANYTHING to my hair for a week. When I first started twisting my hair with it, I figured that because it was so thin compared to the Alma and Olive Heavy Crème, that I would have to reapply to the ends of my hair to prevent it from drying out. HA! I was surprised when I realized this past Sunday, that I hadn't touched my hair since the previous Sunday when I twisted it. Just put on my scarf at night and that was it. No spiriting, no sealing the ends, nothing. My hair was just as soft as the day I did it.

Here is what I've been using on my twists lately:

Hairveda Whipped Baggie Crème (leave in)
Avocado Butter (to seal in leave in)
Qhemet Burdock root Butter crème (twisting agent)

That's all for this update, and I'm going to try to do better about my updates. Thanks ladies!

Reader Product Review: Afro Detangler

2009-09-10T15:32:00.001-04:00

Yesterday, I posted my review of Afro Detangler. Here is reader Margaret G., who is a long term transitioner who was kind enough to send me her review of the product as well as some pictures of her hair bunned using afro detangler. If you need a review of the product basics, check out this link.

Margaret G.: Afro Detangler does what it indicates it will do, detangles and moisturizes. This product detangles well and left my hair soft and moisturized for days. It is thick and somewhat medium to heavy lotion type consistency, however my hair thrives with that type of product. I believe it will be wonderful for year round use because there is no glycerine in the product. The picture is from the day after a wash. It is truly worth the purchase.

I must say, I wasn't able to transistion for an extended period of time, so I'm always excited to see ladies that are able to keep both the relaxed and new growth hair healthy and looking nice! Transistioners and even relaxed ladies, this looks like a product that might be worth checking out!

Product Review: Afro Detangler

2009-09-09T13:28:00.000-04:00

A few months ago, a few ladies on NC.com and I got together, pooled our resources and purchased a bottle of Afro Detangler to split four ways. Now many of you who may not familiar with this product might be wondering why it took four people to purchase one product. That’s because it comes in a huge 64oz (1/2 gallon) jug! That’s great for folks that know and love the product, but not so much when you just want to try it out and see if you will like it. Who wants to have ½ of a product that you might HATE? *if the manufacture of this product is reading….PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make this in a smaller container or offer a “trial size”!

Any who, I’ve been dragging my feet on posting these reviews, so today I’m going to post 3 reviews of the product…two fellow readers and mine. So before I get into the reviews, let’s go over the basics of the product.

PRODUCT DETAILS: For afro/natural textured hair. For those growing their natural hair-- who desire no chemicals and want strength shine and manageability, this is the product! Afro Detangler penetrates the hair shaft reconstructs, strengthens, softens, conditions, and balances the pH in your strands. There is no oily build up. The comb will glide through your hair. Stops hair breakage to practically none. Use on dry or damp hair. A leave-in conditioner. An all natural product! No Chemicals! No Parabens!

INGREDIENTS: water, avocado/mango/shea butter, vitamin E, avocado oil, lecithin, green tea extract, orange extract, CitroZine™ (Organic) as a preservtive, natural fragrance.

COST: 64oz Jug retails for $49, plus flat rate shipping

MY REVIEW: The best way to describe this product is it reminds me of a natural Luster’s pink oil moisturizer! It has the same consistency as Luster’s, and is even pink!

I have used Afro Detangler in a few different ways:
1. Leave in conditioner for twists
2. Moisturizer for dry hair (twists, puffs, buns)
3. Detangler on damp/dry hair

I have to admit, that it makes a GREAT moisturizer for dry hair. It softens the hair, making it easier to brush/comb/smooth into a bun or puff, but it doesn’t make the hair greasy like some dry hair moisturizers tend to. It imparts a nice shine/sheen, and absorbs really well into the hair.

As a leave in, it’s a great primer step for twists and other protective styles. For my uber dry hair, I usually use it as a leave in only during milder weather, and use a heavier product in colder weather. Those of you in more temperate climates should have no problems using this product year round!

I think this product is EXCELLENT for kids’ hair that is usually in low maintenance styles like braids and pig tails. When I was home recently, I took an 8oz bottle home for my sister to use on my niece, and she really liked it. She said that it worked really well for restyling ponytails in the am before going to daycare, and she’s already asking me to send her some more. I sent the link to the website instead…lol).

Over all, I give this product 4 stars. It’s really a 5 star product, but the huge size of it turns me off. Where the hell am I suppose to store a ½ jug of product? I love this product, but I don’t love it enough to justify using a ½ gallon jug of the stuff!

Jasmine's Bath and Beauty Shea Butter Cream Rinse

2009-09-02T13:58:00.005-04:00

I stumbled upon this GREAT company one night while looking around Etsy at all the yummy bath and body products (yes, I love them just as much as hair products...you should see my bathroom). While looking around the owner/creator's Etsy shop (Selective.etsy.com ) I noticed that she has hair products. I immediately noticed the Shea Butter Cream Rinse and wanted to try it, but I talked myself out of it. That was until someone posted about a sale that was occuring on her main website . I couldn't resist the sale and I caved and brought THREE bottles!

PRODUCT DETAILS: This thick cream produces sleek hair with improved shine, bounce, and body. Our conditioner glides on easily and rinses clean. A Fabulous product that is natural, effective, and affordable.

INGREDIENTS: Aloe Extract, BTMS(Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Jojoba Oil, Shea Butter, Glycerin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Panthenol, Vitamin E, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid(food grade paraben free preservative),essential oils

Aloe Extract will make wet / dry combing easier, and adds a protective coating to the cuticle.
Jojoba oil adds light conditioning benefits without weighing hair down. Because its makeup is so similar to the natural sebum in skin and hair, it makes an excellent emollient.
Shea Butter adds its host of natural moisturizing benefits.
Cetearyl Alcohol provides extra slip, viscosity, and conditioning for ease in styling
Glycerin acts as the humectant, while Wheat Protein strengthens and improves hair's moisture content.
Panthenol penetrates the cortex, improving shine, strength, and preventing split ends.
Allantoin prevents further damage to the cuticle.

COST:

8oz container is $10
4oz container is $5

Currently there is a 20% promotion coupon on the home page of the website, code is hairluv

MY REVIEW: The consistency of this product reminds me a LOT of Oyin honey Hemp Conditioner. It's not thick, but it provides LOTS of moisture just like the Honey Hemp does. Actually, the performance reminds me of honey hemp as well!!! The website states that it is a rinse out conditioner, but I havn't tried it that way. I used it as a cowash conditioner and a leave in. As a cowash, it cleaned my hair and prepped it for my heavier rinse out conditioner. I think for relaxed hair, texturized hair, and finer haired natural ladies, it would make an excellent rinse out conditioner. For thicker/coarser headed ladies like myself, its a reat cowash.

As a leave in, I love this product HANDS DOWN!!!! It's got good slip, provides LOTS of moisture, mixes well with other products without the white glob thing (here's a post I wrote on that) and it sinks into the hair and dries with out a waxy, producty feel.

If you are like me, and LOVE the performance of Oyin Honey Hemp, but can't STAND the frangrance (what the hell is that supposed to smell like? I've never smelled honey that fruity", then this is a product that you should check out.

I give it a soild 5 stars and will repurchase when my current stash runs out!

Another Black Hair Documentary

2009-09-01T17:30:00.000-04:00

I'm not sure if any of you have seen this documentary on Youtube about the control of the black/ethnic beauty supply business (store ownership) being controled by mostly Korean shop owners. I remember when this was discussed a while back on the hair boards (NC.com, NP.com and Happycurls) there was a LONG debate about this. There are five videos in the series, here is part one.

Thoughts? Comments?

"Good Hair": a documentary by Chris Rock

2009-09-01T13:36:00.000-04:00

As many of you know by now, Chris Rock is releasing a documentary called "Good Hair" that was developed when his daughter Lola, came up to him crying and asked, "Daddy, how come I dont have good hair?".

So...here is the offical trailer. The documentary is due out in October.

Anyone planning to see it? Any thoughts?

Up coming Qhemet Biologics week....

2009-08-31T11:17:00.000-04:00

Hey ladies! I have some AMAZING news! I've been speaking with the owner/creator/mixtress/operator of another one of my favorite natural hair care lines, Qhemet Biologics, and she has agreeded to do a Q&A for the readers of Naps, Kinks, Coils, and Curls! I'm soooo excited because I adore her products and I've always wanted to know what inspired her to create her line. But rather than just ask the questions that I want to know the answers to, I want to get my readers involved. If you have a question that you would like to ask Qhem, then please leave it in the comments section on this post and I'll try to ask as MANY questions as possible for inclusion in the Q&A article.

In addition to doing the Q&A, I plan on doing reviews of all the Qhemet products that I have used and love! I will admit that I've only a few of the products (Amla and Olive Heavy Cream, Cocoa Tree Detangling Ghee, Burdock Root Butter Cream, Honeybush Tea Soft Gel, and the Karkady Tea Replenishing Mist). If you have used any of the other products and would like to submit a review of these and espically the other products that I havn't used, then please send them to me (including links to youtube reviews that you have done) and I'll post them as well [nappy.curly.crown(at)gmail].

Winter's just around the corner and we all know that her products have become a staple in many ladies winter routines. So let's share the wealth of products reviews for Qhemet Biologic products.

Thanks ladies and stay tuned for more information!

Deep Conditioner: What's the 411?

2009-08-24T16:32:00.000-04:00

As a frequent poster on several of the major hair boards, this is a question that often comes up. What’s the difference between regular conditioner and deep conditioner? A lot of people say that it’s just the length of time that you leave the conditioner on your hair that determines if it is “deep” or not. Others say that you can add stuff “oils/butters/humectants” to a regular conditioner to get the effects of a deep conditioner. In my opinion, to actually be able to answer that question, you have to delve a bit deeper into the science of hair, specifically the structure of the actual hair.

Each hair has three layers: the medulla at the center, which is soft; the cortex, which surrounds the medulla and is the main part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft; and the cuticle, the hard outer layer that protects the shaft. The cuticle is formed by tightly packed scales in an overlapping structure similar to roof shingles. On hair that is in optimal condition, the scales on the cuticle lie flat and are tightly packed.

Here is a diagram that I found that best show what I'm describing

Most conditioners that we encounter/use are not deep conditioners (yes, even if they say they are) and are really rinse out conditioners. Regular/rinse out conditioners can only coat the hair regardless of how long you let it sit on your hair. In order for a conditioner to be considered a deep conditioner, it must be either used with heat (which opens up the cuticles of the hair and allows for penetration of the ingredients) or it must contain various oils/ingredients that naturally penetrate the hair shaft. Most deep conditioners use both (penetrative ingredients AND advise the application of a heat source).

For the most part, baring excessive chemical damage, the cuticle of most people is mostly closed (or as closed as is normal for your hair). The exception to this would be individuals with highly porous hair, in which the scales on the cuticle are naturally raised (see this article for more info). So….what causes the cuticle to open up and allow for the penetration of the conditioning agents (as apposed to causing the cuticle to open and cause damage)? Indirect heat (from a hooded dryer, steamer, hot towel and or sauna) is probably your best source. Personally, I don’t think that enough heat/steam is generated from your bathroom shower to significantly open up the cuticle and allow penetration of conditioning agents.

So…what ingredients are naturally able to penetrate the hair shaft? Well, the ingredient that can penetrate the hair shaft most is….WATER! In addition to water, some oils have been proven to penetrate the hair shaft. Oils that can penetrate the hair shaft include:

Coconut oil, being a triglyceride of lauric acid (principal fatty acid), has a high affinity for hair proteins and, because of its low molecular weight and straight linear chain, is able to penetrate inside the hair shaft.
Coconut Oil, Avocado Oil, Olive oil penetrate the hair shaft to make it stronger (J. Cosmet.Sci 52, 169-184, 2001)

In addition to these natural oils, there are other ingredients that have been proven to penetrate the hair shaft and provide a conditioning effect namely:

Henna and henna extracts, specifically the lawsone molecule that is responsible for the red dying effect of henna, has an affinity for keratin and protein. This molecule is able to penetrate the hair shaft and impart color, while also providing conditioning effects.
Panthenol is the only vitamin (Vitamin B5) known to penetrate the hair shaft. It has historically been used to build healthy follicles and reduce graying.
Hydrolyzed Keratin Proteins are the basic building blocks of the hair shaft.

While these ingredients to my knowledge haven’t been proven to penetrate the hair shaft, they are essential in many other ways to overall hair/scalp health

Aloe Leaf Extract provides building blocks for proteins and is a soothing anti-inflammatory that protects against environmental damages to the hair and scalp.
Dimethyl Sulfoxide is used to facilitate absorption of key ingredients into the scalp and follicles.
Linoleic Acid is a fatty acid that is necessary for the growth of healthy hair follicles.
Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E) is a known anti-oxidant for skin and scalp and helps promote red blood cell count.
Cetyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride is used to emulsify all of the ingredients and can soften, soothe and condition the scalp.
Glycerin is a naturally derived fatty component that absorbs water to naturally moisturize the hair shaft and root.
Silica is an important mineral that helps the body form collagen, which is instrumental to promoting strong, healthy hair.

Please keep in mind that deep conditioners can be either protein or moisture based, so you have to read the ingredient list to see which one it is. And just because a product says it's a deep conditioner doesn't mean it actually is. Look at the ingredient list and the directions. If it doesn't involve heat or says something about penetrating the hair, it probably isn't a good deep conditioner.

Deep Conditioning: A Detailed Guide

2009-08-24T11:06:00.002-04:00

This week on Naps, Kinks, Coils, and Curls; I'll be discussing all the little tips and tricks of the trade concerning deep conditioning. What products and methods work best to improve the state of your hair But before I get into all of that, I want to go over some of the very basics about deep conditioner and dispell a few "myths" about what deep conditioner can and can't do.

First up:....Deep Conditioner: What's the 411?

Drug Store Find: Suave Professionals Humectant Conditioner

2009-08-18T13:05:00.001-04:00

During my recent trip home to Georgia to visit the folks, I had the chance to use a lot of products that are locally available in Target, Walmart, and most chain grogery and drug stores. I didn't take my usual product stash...mainly because the entire week it was 95+ degress with over 75% humidity and my hair was in a ponytail the entire trip (in those kind of conditions, out hair is just not an option). So as soon as I landed, I headed off to target to pick up some basic supplies that I would need to last the week....a good conditioner, a leave in, and a light gel/styling creme for putting my hair back into a bun/ponytail. Here is the conditioner I used:

PRODUCT DETAILS: Deeply Moisturizes as well as Nexxus®*.

Suave Professionals Humectant Conditioner restores moisture to dry or damaged hair - for less than the more expensive brands.

Humectant Formula with Panthenol and Keratin replenishes moisture as well as Nexxus® Humectress®**.

Moisturizing Formula restores hair leaving it soft and manageable.

INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Centrimonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Fragrance (Parfum), Quaternium 18, Potassium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, TEA Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, DMDM Hydantoin, Glycerin, Panthenol, Hair Keratin Amino Acids, Sodium Chloride, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone
COST: 32oz about $5
16oz about $3

MY REVIEW: I've used this conditioner in the past, but I don't remember exactly WHY I stopped using it but I plan to add it back into the line up. This conditoner has a LOT more slip than I recall it had in the past (it has been reformulated). Literally, I detangled my hair in a matter of minutes....which is unheard of for me...even on previously detangled hair! It gave my hair MAJOR moisture, and rinses clean and easy. I used it as a cowash conditioner and as a rinse out conditioner after washing my hair with black soap. LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE this conditioner. It does contain a cone (dimethicone) which can cause build up for some people, so you will need to use a sufate shampoo occassionally to remove the silicone. I used it exclusively for a week with no problems with buildup, but results my vary for different people.

For those of you that are looking for a thicker conditioner to cowash with than the usual suave naturals and V05, I highly recommend you try this one. And at $5 for a liter, this is a steal for those of us that are budget concious!

On a scale of 1-5 stars, this product is 4 stars! Would have been 5 stars if it were silicone free, but still a great conditioner for the price.

Back from vacation and ready to get this party started!

2009-08-13T13:15:00.000-04:00

Hey ya'll!!! I'm back from a most relaxing and stress free vaction at my parents house in Georgia and I'm ready to get this joint back popping again! I won't bore you all with the details of the vacation (I didn't do much more than run a bunch of errands for my mother, sleep, and play with the babies). Even though I had a BLAST, it feels good to be back home and not be awaken in the middle of the night by little 3 year old feet in your face! *why is it that kids start out in one position and end up in another in thier sleep?*

Whenever I go home, I rarely take products home with me, because my staple style is usually a ponytail or bun. When the average temperature is 95 with 90% humidity, its pointless to even attempt any kind of "out hair". So I usually use this time to revisit my drugstore/walmart/target hair products that I abandoned long ago. On this particualr trip, I rediscovered a conditioner, a curl gel, and a leave in. So stay tuned tomorrow for "Flash Back Friday" where I'll give you all a review of each!

*yawn* I need to unpack my digital camera so I can show you all pictures of my babies, the twists I did on my neice, my BFF (who's natural!) and a few other folks. But first, I'm going to finish my nap!

PEACE

What to expect over the coming week....

2009-07-31T18:17:00.000-04:00

This past week, I know I havn't done a good job of keeping up with the posts and what not, but work has been a BEAST. I was swamped with stuff that just HAD to get done before I take my much needed vacation. Now that I'm sitting in the airport headed to ATL, I wanted to let you all know what to expect from Naps, Kinks, Coils and Curls over the coming week(s).

*to read the full post, click "read more" in the upper left hand corner*

Product Reviews: While going through my amazing product stash (yes, sometimes I forget just how much stuff I have...lol) and I realized that I have TONS oof products from lots of companies that I need to write or consolidate into one place (I have reviews that I have written on some of the hair boards). So this week, I plan on taking some time and writing these reviews so that I can begin to post them.

The science of hair: I've been slipping on this one. I've been answering lots of questions related to this on the boards, but I haven't posted squat here. Partly because I don't want to duplicate material that others have posted on thier blogs. I want to keep this place unique, which means I'm trying hard not to do topics that others have done. So I plan to write a few posts in this arena as well.

My Routine: People have emailed me asking me what I use, styles I wear, and all sorts of questions. I'm going to get to answering those questions, hopefully complete with pictures for references.

Ingredient Questions: This is probably the biggest thing I get asked about. I'm a chemist, so I try to answer questions asked of me with documented scientific information about the safe usage, effects, and purpose of certain ingredients used in hair products. I don't like to just repost "internet folklore" about what things can and can't do, and I also don't want to write a thesis complete with atomic structure! So it's a balancing act, one that takes a bit of time to find the peer reviewd journals, read and intrepret, and then write the post. I've got a few in the works, so bear with me.

So please stay tuned to see what I've got in store for you all! Thanks again for the continued support!

Wellness Wednesdays...Hydrate your way to healthier hair!

2009-07-29T11:38:00.003-04:00

We all have been told countless times that drinking 8 glasses of water a day is good for our health. Water intake is known to cleanse and detoxify the body. Water is the carrier of nutrients to, it carries nutrients to ever cell of your body and is also known to improve blood circulation.

Not only is water good for your overall health, it's essential to your hair, skin and nails as well. Water is the best friend of your skin and hair. Beautiful, baby smooth skin and soft supple hair are some things that everyone desires. Though we were gifted with beautiful skin and hair when we were born over the years, pollution, unhealthy eating habits and our lifestyle has ruined our skin, and made our hair dull, dry, and brittle.

During my last weigh in (down 18 pounds total!) my doctor actually told me that drinking 8 glasses (64oz) is NOT ENOUGH water for the average person that is moderately active. It’s actually the minimal amount of water that your body needs, and that intake amount quickly increases of you exercise, work a very active labor intensive job, live in a warm climate, suffer from water retention, or even are on a diet.

*To see the rest of this post, please click "see more" in the upper left hand corner*

For your over all health, it is advised that you drink ½ your body weight in ounces of water daily. So, for a 150 pound woman, that’s 75oz of water that should be consumed daily. Now I know what you all are thinking…that’s a LOT of water, but really it’s only about 11oz more than the old standard of 8 glasses (64oz) of water. Additionally, if you eat lots of watery foods (cucumbers, melons, soups), drink lots of tea and fresh fruit juices (not from concentrate or without added sugar and high fructose corn syrup) then its highly likely that you are already getting the additional ounces that you need above that beyond the 64oz.

For the past three (3) weeks, I’ve been experimenting with various ways of increasing my water intake and so far, I’ve been drinking about 150oz of water daily (don’t be trying to figure out my weight cause I’m drinking more than the ½ my body weight… :) ) without really making any huge changes to my life. Here’s what I’ve been doing:

I workout in the mornings, so I carry a water bottle with me to the gym (approx. 20oz). My goal daily is to drink 2 full bottles between when I wake up and when I get back home from the gym….which is an easy 40oz of water.
I have a 32 oz water bottle on my desk at work. I usually drink 1 full one between when I arrive at work and lunch (just sipping), I drink a full one with my lunch, and then I drink another full one after lunch and before quitting time….which is another 96oz of water.
I gave up soda (although I do drink maybe 1 a week), so I drink water with my dinner and when I’m watching TV [in place of my nightly beer(s)]…another 16-20 ounces.

I know a lot of people don’t like the taste of water…and I admit that it does get to me after a while. God BLESS the folks a crystal light! Those little water drink mix packages are the BOMB!!! I keep a few boxes in different flavors in my desk drawer, and I keep a box of the Propel ones in my gym bag. Makes it MUCH easier to drink all that water when it tastes like koolaid! You can also try sparkling water beverages just make sure you watch the sodium content!

Now….I will say this, I’ve since adopted a favorite stall in the bathroom at work and have been spending a good deal of time there. Once you start increasing your water intake, you WILL pee….ALOT! But that’s actually not that bad, because that one negative definitely pales in comparison to the benefits. This is going to sound gross, but the first thing I noticed is that my pee went from being a dark yellow to being almost a faint barely there yellow and it barely has a scent. My skin broke out for a few days (but that could have been because of my monthly hormonal change) but then it cleared up and it GLOWS. I'm not slathering on lip balm for my painfully dry cracked chaped lips, my scalp has been less dry and my skin doesn’t get all ashy and cracked after a bath if I don’t slather on my shea butter cream!

Specifically for your hair and skin, you should use products that contain water in them, since it is nature’s BEST moisturizer and follow with a product that seals in that moisture (I’ve got a post coming on this topic soon!). For instance, I spritz my hair daily with either a homemade spritz or with Qhemet Biologics Karkady Spray. Here is my homemade spritz mix:

8oz spray bottle
Spring Water
Glycerin (optional, especially is you live in a dry climate)
Rice bran oil
Avocado oil
Conditioner of choice: I like shea moisture, KBB super silky, Oyin Honey Hemp, or Jasmine's Shea butter cream rinse (review coming soon!!!)

I start by adding about 4oz of water to the spray bottle, then adding 1tablespoon each of glycerin, rice bran oil, and avocado oil. I add 2 tablespoons of conditioner (If you use KBB Hair Milk, add 3 tablespoons and then leave off the glycerin). Shake everything up really well, and add more spring water to fill the remainder of the bottle. I also add rosemary and peppermint EO to my spritz (4-5 drops of each).

For those of you that suffer from dry scalp, I can think of no better way to hydrate your scalp than with a good spritz mix. The water will be absorbed by your scalp and hair, and the light oils will seal in the moisture without leaving you with greasy hair. For those of you with coarse dry hair like me, this spritz leaves with with SOFT non greasy hair that lasts all day!

I'm always looking for ways to improve my health, so if you have methods for increasing your water intake, please leave them in the comment section along with any questions!

Taking products home for the folks.....

2009-07-25T14:07:00.003-04:00

I'm counting down the days til I'm back home in the country and away from the city (1 more week to go)! I LOVE DC...but I relish my semi-annual trips home to Georiga. Mostly cause I get to sleep til noon, have someone cook and clean for me (for free!) and I get to play with the babies...my neice Kelly (4) and my nephew Lance (7). They have this ability to make me forget everything that's going on around me...because they keep me smothered in hugs and kisses! And being the fun auntie that I am...I spend my days home at the zoo, Chuckie Cheese, the park, Toys R Us, and just about any other place the beg me to take them (yeah...I'm such a sucker).

My neice Kelly is natural, and so is my aunt. My younger cousin is also in the process of growing out her hair using braids. I'm even talking my mother into growing out her hair. So with all these natural folks in the making, I want to bring home a bunch of goodies for them to try. Partly because where they live, there is little to no access to good products on the ground...so they would be less likely to order online (even with my suggestions) AND I want them to see the potential in thier hair.

Here is where I need your help.....

So...I need some suggestions for things that would work well for thier hair. What products do you all suggest I take them? I need things that will fit each of the following:

1. unscented and/or not strongly scented for a child (who wears braids and ponytails)...not trying to define curls or anything. [my neice]

2. work well for older women who are experiencing some natural thinning due to age and/or hormonal changes. [my mom and aunt]

3. work well for transitioning hair (light enough for the relaxed ends but hydrating enough for the new growth) [my cousin]

4. any products that would work well for all three?

5. even though my sister is the queen of the relaxers and quick weaves (don't ask...lol) I would like to get her into using better products for her hair. So what natural products are good for relaxed hair (any readers from LHCF?)

Please leave your suggestions in the comment section...and I'll make sure to report back with LOTS of pictures!

We Don' t Do Length Checks.....But if we did....

2009-07-22T17:11:00.003-04:00

Ha! I love me some Tom Joyner! And of course his "we don't do shout outs" segment is where the title of today's post come's from. I don't do length checks...for a variety of reasons. I'm not hung up on long hair per say, although it does give some styling advantages, but it has its draw backs. The hair I've got sucks up products like nobody's business and most importantly...ALL THIS HAIR IS HOT IN THE SUMMER TIME!!!!!

So while I don't do length checks, I do take lots of pictures of my hair and I was looking at some pictures and even though my hair sometimes appears to not have gained a lot of length...man oh man can I still see the growth. Check out these puff comparison shots. The first two were taken in 2007 (disregard the date stamp..lol) and July 2009 (taken this past weekend before my trip to get a much need trim!)

Spring 2007

July 2009

Now...here are the major differences that I can tell in these pictures:

1. The puff is def. bigger...no question about it!
2. The first puff was placed in the center of my head (Spring 2007) the more recent puff is actually sitting at the NAPE of my head…now that's a big ole puff!
3. First puff (Spr 2007) is pulled nice and tight with the extra slick back action...the recent puff was just smoothed back with my hands…no brush...no slick back...just loosely gathered.
4. First pictures are on picked out hair....recent pictures are on hair with shrinkage galore!

This just goes to show you...you don't have to be obsessive about length in order to get it!
.

Random Natural Hair Tip: How to prevent the white hair globs

2009-07-22T10:54:00.000-04:00

It's happened to us all. You get a new leave in and/or styler and you decide to try it with your holy grail product. You're so excited...that you wash your hair the next morning just so you can try out your new products. You wash and condition as usual. You apply your leave in and then the moment of truth....you apply your styler and then WHAM! A head full of white cottage cheese looking globs in your hair.
You stare at your head in horror. "I can't go to work with this shyt in my head" and you are forced to rewash your hair to get rid of the horrid mistake and start all over (and end up getting to work late).

Many of us are left trying to figure out what happened. Did I use to much of one product? Not enough product? Did I rinse the conditioner out completely? WHAT HAPPENED?!?!?!? This can be a frustating and madding process..espically if you wash daily (or in the morning) and your don't have time for these issues to arise in your morning routine (espically if like me, you try and sleep until the last moment possible!)

Well, here is a tip from the Naps,Kinks,Coils,and Curls files. When using two or more products (leave in + styler) that you have never used together before, put a tiny bit of each in the palm of your hand and mix. If it globs up and turns into that cottage cheese looking stuff, that's what it will do when they meet on your head. This way, you can test to see what will happen once the products are mixed, without extending your morning routine by having to rewash your hair.

Hope this little tidbit helps someone!

And the Winner is

2009-07-21T10:19:00.002-04:00

And the winner of the $25 Afroveda Gift Certificate is.........

Natural Mahogany!!!!

Please send me an email with your contact information so that I can send you the details of how to redeem your AfroVeda gift certificate!

Many thanks to Mala who was kind enough to donate the gift certificate and of course...thanks to all who particiapted!!!!

$25 AfroVeda Gift Certificate Give-Away...ends tomorrow!!!

2009-07-19T21:42:00.000-04:00

Don't forget....the $25 Afroveda Gift Certificate give away ends tomorrow @ 5pm. Click here for details about the give-away details.

Q&A with Mala Rhodes, Owner and Creator of Afroveda

2009-07-17T11:07:00.008-04:00

I know that many of you have heard me RAVE about AfroVeda products on this blog, HappyCurls, Nappturality, and NaturallyCurly. When I first discovered AfroVeda products, I sent an email to the customer service email listed on the website asking a few questions. I had no idea that I would be getting my answers directly from the woman who created the line and hand makes the products! Over the past six months since my first AfroVeda purchase, Mala and I have exchanged many emails back and forth…mostly with my asking questions before I decide to try different items form the line. Each time, I have been impressed with the level of detail and thoroughness of her explanations as well as the level of customer service I have received. When I created this space, it is exactly people like Mala that I want to showcase! The small start up companies (the new face of mom and pop!) that are keeping the spirit of entrepreneurial alive and well for the black community!

I could think of no other fitting way to help her celebrate the FIRST anniversary of AfroVeda than by conducting this interview (which is surprisingly her first!) and giving each of you the chance to win a $25 AfroVeda gift certificate. So, without farther ado, I want to introduce you all to Mala Rhodes!

Please, tell the readers of Naps, kinks, coils and curls a little bit about yourself. Who is Mala Rhodes?

First and foremost I am a giver. It is a trait that is inherent in most women, but according to family and friends, I seem to have taken it to the extreme. I love natural hair, and I love what it meant to me when I first “became” a natural – freedom! Not just freedom from chemicals, I learned to be free from the negative connotations I used to use for chemical-free hair. I learned to be free from “nappy hair” stereotypes, although there are others around me still in bondage. I am now free to give compliments at will to anyone (sista or brotha) rocking a natural style. I am also free to compliment my relaxed sisters who know how to take care of their relaxed tresses and make it work. I am a poet, a writer, a mother, a grandmother, a wife, a mentor, a business owner and, most importantly, a child of God. I love reading, running marathons, hiking canyons, traveling the world and spending time on the hammock.

Tell us about your journey...where you always natural? What led you towards natural hair? How would you describe your hair type?

I began my journey to natural hair nine years ago, as I began to see the effects chemical relaxers were having on my hair. It was shoulder-length, but getting thinner by the year. I was truly afraid that I would eventually go bald from the relaxers, so I stopped using them. For the next 4 years I wore my hair (almost exclusively) in microbraids, cutting a little of the relaxed ends off every time my hair was re-braided. Once my hair was long enough to pull back into a ponytail, I stopped getting it braided. I have worn my natural 3C/4A hair ever since and have never regretted my decision.

What was your inspiration for creating AfroVeda?

I have never been very good at styling hair (natural or relaxed), and was always looking for styles and products to give me the most benefit. After reading several fotki sites of African-American women with beautiful hair, I decided to post a few pictures of my hair in hopes of getting some advice. One such post was of a product that I created and had been using in my hair for years as a natural conditioner. It was a recipe that was given to me by one of my massage clients at the time, and included Aloe Vera and coconut oil. After posting the picture of the product on the website, several emails came in saying “if you make some for me I will buy it.” Less than 2 weeks later I had a website up and had 3 products in the line. That original product became what is now Curly Custard.

Since I had been experimenting with Ayurvedic hair care remedies for my own hair issues, I knew that I wanted the line to reflect the same. I learned that my thinning hair really didn’t have as much to do with the relaxers I once wore, but more to do with my Ayurvedic body type, which is Pitta. I named the company “AfroVeda” because it spoke to exactly what the company promotes: Ayurvedic care for African-American hair.

In one of our earlier conversations, you mentioned that you work a full time job in addition to being the mixtress/packager/shipper/accountant/all-around super woman for your company. How in the WORLD do you manage to get it all done AND provide such great customer service?

I’m a Pitta woman to the core! As much as I might talk about having “too much going on”, I actually thrive on it! If there is ever an open spot on my calendar I am quick to fill it with something interesting and extremely engaging! I love this business and want to know as much as I can about everything! Hair, Ayurveda, websites, blogs, hair shows, marketing…you name it, I want to know. I am now on my way to becoming a certified Ayurvedic consultant. I don’t just want to know a few good recipes for healthier hair. It is important to me to fully understand Ayurveda in order to ensure that my products are authentic and truly represent their principles. My Biology/Chemistry background helped me with coming up with formulas for the recipes, and having a cousin with 30 years experience as a chemist didn’t hurt either. Starting a hair care line has unleashed the creative side of me that had been dormant for so long, and I have greatly enjoyed creating the brand that is now AfroVeda.

When I tell people I work around the clock, I really mean it. There is a place on the website that says that we are “working night and day to get your products to you”. That is a true statement. Even with two additional people helping me with packaging and shipping products, it is still gets busy. Just the way I like it!!

To me, customer service is number one. I have personally walked away from establishments that had exactly what I wanted, simply because they gave horrible customer service. It is the backbone of AfroVeda and something that we try never to fall short on. Receiving comments of thanks and praise from customers lets me know that we are on the right track. I love being able to personally answer emails and always hope that I am being a benefit to others.

So tell us a bit about the products...are there certain products that are better for certain textures or lend themselves to working better for certain styles?

The system of Ayurveda is based on the principle that everyone has a specific make-up, or constitution, that makes them individual and different from everyone else. Ayurveda calls these constitutions "doshas". There are 3 doshas -- Vata, Pitta & Kapha -- and what makes us different is the specific combination of the three that is unique in everyone.

When your characteristics point to a specific dosha, you are said to be dominant in that dosha. Everything from the condition of your hair, your sleep habits, and even your temperament are factors in determining your dosha type. And once you have this knowledge, you can determine which exercise program, diet and even hair & skin products are right for you. AfroVeda products are based solely on this principle. Having “dry hair” doesn’t specify your dosha type. But being Vata almost always mean you’ll have dry hair.

Now here's the question that I'm sure everyone is wondering about, how do you determine your dosha? I tried using the previous test on the website and I felt like I fit into all of the doshas....so I looked at the various ingredients of the products to make my selections. Is there a secret to getting it right?

There’s no real secret to it. I have listed a few questions on AfroVeda’s website that, once answered, will tell you what your primary dosha is. Very rarely will one person have equal character traits for all three doshas, but it does happen. These people are called “tridoshic” and can essentially use any AfroVeda product on their hair with success. For the majority of people, they will have a dominant dosha type. In Ayurveda, there are specific oils and herbs that are recommended for each dosha. For instance, coconut oil is great for Pitta types because it is both cooling and nourishing
*update: the quiz for your dosha type has changed, and I think the new one is much more effective at helping you determine your dosha*

So what's next for Afroveda? Got any new products you're working on?

Wow! What’s next? Everything!! AfroVeda will proudly make its first appearance at the upcoming Bronner Bros. Hair Show in Atlanta in August. I am also traveling to Ghana, Africa in September in part to establish relationships with vendors for natural shea butter and other items. It will be a wonderful experience. We don’t currently have any new products coming out (we introduced the men’s hair care line just last month), but we are planning to institute “Veda Days”, a spin-off from the Nappy Hair Affair events that have been going on for years. AfroVeda’s hair days will, of course, focus on Ayurveda.

In a previous post, I asked for readers to submit questions that they might want me to ask Mala during our converastion. Unfortunately, NubianCoils and Jazzi, you questions were submitted after the interview was conducted...however, I encourage both of you to email Mala at [info (at)afroveda(dot)com]. She personally answers each and every email herself and I'm positive that she can and will answer your questions!

Reader Submitted Questions:

Naps, kinks, coils, and curls follower "G" would like to know if it is possible to purchase some products fragrance free because of allergies?

That is a great idea and one that I hope to be able to introduce in the near future. We do not currently offer that ability but it is under strong consideration.

Naps, kinks, coils, and curls follower "Nubian Coils" would like to know which of the products do you use/like the best from the line?

My dosha is Pitta, so those are the products that work best for my hair. I mainly use the NU Milk from that line and the Priti Bodhi hair oil. I love the essential oil blend in the “Totally Twisted” butter, but the oils used are for the Kapha dosha and tend to make my hair feel oily. I use it anyway on occasion, just when I’m at home and don’t mind the oily feel. Other than that, I use the shampoo bar, Curly Custard, and all of the Seven line of products. I love the Khorem hair serum!

Naps, kinks, coils, and curls follower "Maria" would like to know your take on this...."I have dry 3C hair that I wear straight and/or curly. What type of products do you recommend for someone that loves to change their hairstyle every day"?
If you are using lots of heat to create the straight styles (blow dryers, flat irons, etc.), then moisturize, moisturize, moisturize!!! If your dosha is Vata, then you’re already prone to dry hair. Any of the hair butters will add mega moisture to your hair and you can seal in that moisture with one of the hair oils. Choosing the products that fit your dosha type will give you the most benefit.

This person isn't a Naps, kinks, coils, and curls follower, but "NaturallyCurlyEnvoy" from NaturallyCurly.com would like to know if any of your products are aloe vera free (she has an aloe allergy). Also, do you offer customization for individuals with allergies to certain ingredients?

Aloe Vera leaf juice is used in almost every AfroVeda product, with the exception of the new CinnaMint Conditioner and CinnaMint Shampoo. It is such a revered plant in Ayurveda with wonderful healing properties. Customization of our products to that extent would be quite expensive, and would not be very cost-effective to the consumer.

Thank you so much for allowing me to reach out to your followers to give a little insight about me and AfroVeda. It has been such a pleasure meeting you and I am all the better for it. Completing this interview allowed me to stop for a moment and smell the roses, and appreciate the enormous gift that I have been blessed with. I am honored to be featured on your site. Take care and be blessed.

So..wanna know how you can win the AfroVeda $25 gift certificate? It's EASY! All you have to do is become a follower of this site! Each person that follows this site will have thier names entered into a drawing to win the $25 Afroveda gift certificate. Wanna increase your chances of winning? Each person that also subscribes/follows Mala's blog will get an additional entry into the drawing. That's still not enough (i know some of you are extreme product junkies...lol), then leave a comment at the end of this post telling Mala why you love (or want to try) AfroVeda products. Each comment earns you another entry into the drawing (limited to 2 comments). The drawing for the $25 Afroveda gift certificate will be held Monday @ 5pm EST.

So...that's a total of FOUR entries into the drawing. So go ahead and check Mala's blog out...it's the best way to say up dated on AfroVeda sales and you also get the chance to interact with this awesome woman!

Wellness Wednesdays: MSM and its many benefits for joints, hair, skin and nails

2009-07-15T23:54:00.002-04:00

*my apologies for this late post…but work was a BEAST today!*

Since I began my journey into becoming physically healthier, it seems like my body is trying to rebel on me! Old high school and college injuries are rearing their ugly heads and trying to make me feel older than my 29 years! Sadly, I know part of it is the excess weight that I’m carrying around (which is why I’m motivated to try and get it off!) but it’s HARD ya’ll to get up and go to the gym when you got creaking knees, aching joints, and a myriad of other ailments (chiefly being LAZY!). I tore my right MCL in college and after being in a long leg brace for 8 months and then 6 months of PT, I wasn’t about to let a bum knee stop me from my goals.

I must say that I am blessed to have a good friend that is studying to become a holistic healthcare provider. As soon as I told him what my issues were, he suggested that I do two things:

Take a week off from the gym to give my knee a chance to recover
Begin taking a supplement with MSM, glucosamine and chondroitin ( the picture above is the exact one that I take)

Initially, I was skeptical, because I really didn’t see an immediate difference. But after consistently taking the supplements for almost 4 months, I see a HUGE difference! My knee doesn’t hurt anymore after my workouts (not unless I REALLY overdo it at the gym) and my joints don’t pop/click.

But what I wasn’t prepared for was the change in my hair.
It’s not like it was an overnight change either...it was very gradual and very subtle. I have this very coarse, rough patch of hair in the center of my head. It’s always the “misbehaving” section of my hair. It’s always the first to tangle, mat, and break. It’s the section of hair that I must baby. I add extra leave in to it so that it retains moisture and I detangle it in smaller sections to ensure that it doesn’t mat. Well to my surprise, it just hit me one day…that my misbehaving section hasn’t been acting up much lately. Come to think of it, it hasn’t been misbehaving at ALL. The section has been retaining moisture much better (actually my whole head is), it’s not tangling as much, it’s not as rough as it once was, and the strands feel smoother and stronger. Also, as thick as my hair was prior, it’s gotten even THICKER.

And the best part…..it’s been SIX MONTHS since my last trim (I’m scheduled to get one on Sunday!) and usually by month two, this is the section that lets me know that it’s about time to get a trim. I’ve NEVER been able to go more than three months without serious breakage/damage to this section of my head and generally have lots ot splits and those darn single strand knots. Additionally, I’m not shedding nearly as much hair as I used to. No joke ya’ll I used to think I was part poodle or something because I was always sweeping hair up off the floor…and when detangling; my shed hair ball was ridiculous. I would see ladies posting about how their shedding really bad because they lost more than 20 hairs and I would laugh hysterically at my computer. Twenty hairs and you’re sending out a nappy mayday? Man only in my dreams.

Well I guess that dream has come true because when I detangle now, I literally only have a few shed hairs, and they are all long and have the bulb on the end. Not like before where the hairs would be various sizes and some of them I KNEW were broken hairs. Now, I will admit that I have been taking much better care of my hair these past few months, and this change could be from a combination of things…but the more I read up on MSM…the more convinced that this has played a critical part in the overall improvement in the health of my hair. Specificly, I think the MSM is the reason why I'm not sheding nearly as much hair as I used to nor am I experiencing as much breakage.

So what exactly is MSM? Official MSM is Methylsulfonylmethane. Quite simply MSM is a food that comes from the ocean, is water soluble, and is not a drug, or a food additive. MSM is the 3rd largest ingredient found in the human body. MSM is a natural form of organic sulfonyl sulfur compound that is found in the fluid of all living organisms. It is present in a variety of foods, including most fresh raw fruits and green vegetables, milk, meat, seafood, and some grains. It is also found in many common beverages such as milk, coffee and tea.

While MSM is found in many common foods that we eat, MSM is volatile and is easily lost during even moderate processing. Cooking, drying, smoking, pickling, and long-term storage can deplete the MSM content of food. Unless the human diet is composed primarily of raw foods, it is unlikely that sufficient MSM will be ingested to significantly contribute to the nutritional sulfur requirement. MSM provides the body with a water soluble (which means its easily absorbed by the body) form of sulfur required for healthy collagen and keratin which are essential for healthy hair, skin and nails.

How does MSM work? MSM can naturally lengthen your hair’s growth phase. The anagen phase is the hair's growth phase. It is genetically determined. This is why some people can grow very long hair, while others cannot grow hair past their shoulders. A person who has an angen phase lasting six years will achieve much greater lengths than a person with only a two year anagen. Why is this? Because the hair grows in three phases: the anagen is the growth phase, the catagen is the growth phase and the telogen is the shedding phase. In the hair, MSM works with the natural keratin and protein levels of the hair to accelerate the hair growth cycle by extending the length of the hair growth cycle.

What are some other benefits of MSM?

- MSM helps your body build collagen, the protein that keeps skin and hair supple.
- MSM is thought to promote the rebuilding of muscles and joint tissue
- MSM is used by the body to continually create new healthy cells to replace the old ones.
- MSM helps our bodies absorb more nutrients (vitamins and minerals)
- MSM helps the body eliminate toxins including lactic acid build-up from strenuous exercise.
- MSM helps to dramatically reduces recuperation time from strenuous exercise.

Now, don’t run out to your pharmacy and go load up on MSM! As with ALL supplements, you should talk with your doctor/healthcare provider about any possible drug interactions. Also, I am of the belief that supplements work best when used in conjunction with a balanced, healthy diet. I took a MSM supplement when I first injuried my knee to shorten the recovery time, but I never noticed any of the positive effects (not even in my recovery) because I was still loading my body up with Big Macs and Filet-o-Fish sandwiches. If you want to get the best benefit from your herbal/mineral supplements, change your eating habits/diet too!

For those of you that are not into taking lots of pills, MSM can also be used topically. I personally have not experimented (yet any way) with adding MSM to products, but I have been purchasing more products with MSM already in them. Lots of natural handmade product companies have been including MSM in thier products because of the benefits that it offers. Here are a few products that I've been using that contain MSM:

Qhemet Biologics Amla and Olive Heavy Cream, Burdock Root Butter Cream, CocoTree Detangling Ghee, Karkady Spray, and Honeybush Tea soft Gel (http://www.qhemetbiologics.com/) *actually, I think most of the Qhemet Biologics products contain MSM*
Afroveda Hibiscus Hair Infusion Oil (http://www.afroveda.com/)

I'm sure there are a lot of other products that contain MSM, but these are just the one's that I've been using which I LOVE. I actually purchased them for other reasons, but when I noticed that they all contained MSM, that's when I started putting 2 and 2 together! Also, some people say that MSM can cause adult acne flare ups....so as with anything...use caution and experiment safely folks!

Want more information? Check out the following links:

http://www.naturodoc.com/library/medsmats/msm/MSM_benefits.htm

http://www.msmguide.com/

Also, there are TONS of topics about MSM on Nappturality, NaturallyCurly, and LHCF. Many of the ladies there have been using MSM topically as well as in supplemental form and there is a wealth of information there. As always, got a question? Hit me in the comments section!

Happy Birthday AfroVeda Sale..extended until 7/31!!!

2009-07-14T15:05:00.002-04:00

Yet ANOTHER reason why I love this company....they have extended thier sale until July 31!!! I logged on to make my purchses and I saw this on the website! Whoooo Hoooo!

__________________________________________________________

Just a reminder....The Afroveda sale ends tomorrow! Also, stay tuned this week for the interview I conducted with Mala Rhodes, owner/creator of AfroVeda and a very special product giveaway!
______________________________________________________________
To Our Special Guest,

I'm excited to let you know that AfroVeda is now 1 year old! Happy Birthday to us!! :-)

AfroVeda's products let you wash, detangle, moisturize, protect and style with Ayurvedic-inspired products that will keep your tresses feeling soft, moisturized and healthy!

To celebrate our birthday and thank you for joining our email list, I've included a store coupon in this email. You may use this coupon code as many times as you wish from now until July 15, 2009. Please feel free to forward this email to anyone who may be interested, to help me share the news.

Save 20%, Use coupon code: avbday09

Happy Shopping!
Mala Rhodes

Sale Announcement....Karen's Body Beautiful (B2G1 Free)

2009-07-14T14:56:00.000-04:00

For those of you that are fans of KBB, here B2G1 FREE sale is back again! This is the perfect time to stock up on her Hair Milks, Hair Nectar, and Super Silky.

How to perform a hair assessment

2009-07-13T12:14:00.003-04:00

To perform a hair assessment, you don’t need any special skills or tools…all you need is clean, product free hair; some shed hair from your comb or brush; an open and rational mind; and the most important thing you must have is the ability to accept the things that you might find out about your hair.

When I originally did my self assessment, I washed my hair with a sulfate shampoo to get it clean and free from ANY type of build up. I know a lot of people are scared of shampoo, so if you are 100% following the curly girl method, then you should be fine using a sulfate free shampoo. If you use products with silicones, you will need to use shampoo, and no, and AVC rinse will not remove the silicone buildup…contrary to what a lot of people believe. Once you have cleansed your hair and scalp, allow your hair to dry as unmanipulated as possible. Don’t put it in a ponytail, bun, puff, pull it back…nothing. Just let it be.

Hair while wet (towel dried to stop the drips)

What you want to do is observe your hair while it is wet and as it dries…that’s it. If it helps, snap a few pictures of your hair at various stages of drying for future reference. You want to ask yourself a few questions as you observe your hair *NOTE: these tests should be repeated once the hair is dry*:

1. Determine if there is a curl pattern present: What does my hair look like while wet? Does it have a distinguishable curl or is it just a huge fluffily cloud?

2. Determine the amount of shrinkage: As it dries, does it shrink up and if so, about what percentage of it does shrink up (i.e. does it go from should length to ear length or even shorter)

3. Determine if your hair holds water: Is your hair drying very fast (50-75% dry in 1-2 hours) or is it holding a lot of water (still soaking wet after 2-3 hours)

4. Determine if your hair has shine vs. sheen: Does your hair appear to be shiny (a sharp reflection of light) or does it appear to have sheen (a low reflection of light). A good way of thinking about it is this: Shine has a wetter look than sheen. Shine glistens and sheen is a little duller.

Here are a few pictures of my hair taken during a repeat hair assessment that I performed this weekend.

<----about 25-30% wet

About 50% dry (notice the shrinkage setting in!)-->

<---about 80% dry (my roots were still really wet!

Now while your hair is drying, you want to look at the shed hairs that you have collected from a comb or brush and ask yourself a few questions about the hairs *I was unable to take pictures of this process....sorry ladies! If anything seems unclear, leave me a question in the comments section and I'll try my best to explain it*

1. Compare a strand of your hair to a strand of regular sewing thread: If your hair strand is thicker than the thread then you have thick hair strands, if it's the same size you have medium hair strands, if it’s thinner then you have thin hair strands.

2. You also want to check the elasticity of your hair strands. Take a few pieces of shed hair and wet them. Hold one end of one strand in each hand and pull the hair taut to stretch it. If the strand stretches and then returns to normal after you release it, you have good elasticity. If the hair snaps or does not return to its former length, you have low elasticity. You want to test a few strands individually and take the “average” of the tests. *Note….this should be done with a moderate amount of strength….all hair will snap if pulled hard enough.

3. To determine your hair's porosity, grasp a strand of shed hair firmly between your fingers. Slide the thumb and index finger of your other hand from end to scalp (opposite direction as for texture test). If your fingers "catch" going up the strand, or feel like they are ruffling up the hair strand, your hair is overly porous. If it is smooth, you have normal porosity. If your fingers move very fast up the hair strand and it feels exceptionally slick, you have low porosity.

Once your hair is dry and the first set of tests has been repeated, the final test is to determine the DENSITY of your hair. Density refers to the number of hair follicles that are on your head (and the actual number of hair strands that you have). Thin hair would have a smaller number of hair follicles, and the hair might look “spacey” or another way of looking at it is that you can easily see the scalp even if the hair is not parted (most people with thin hair (or less dense hair) complain of their twists being “scalpy”. Those with THICK hair have a larger number of follicles and medium density is obviously in the middle.

*I found this test below online a while back and couldn’t find the original source to quote or link to, however, I found that a lot of ladies on LHCF, and another long hair care site (I don’t remember the name but it was catering to Caucasian ladies) used the method described below. I believe that it is also a part of the Fia hair typing system (which is different from Andre’s but that’s another post).*

To determine the density of your hair, pull all of your hair up into a ponytail in the center of your head (or as much as possible) and secure with an elastic band. Once the hair is secured, take a piece of thread/string and wrap it around the base of the ponytail, and measure the string where the ends touch. Depending on your measurement would determine how dense your hair is:

1. thin- less than 2 in.
2. medium- 2-4 in
3. thick- more than 4 in

Once you have finished your hair assessment you are now armed with the tools you need to hopefully help you determine some key information about your hair. I hope this post is clear….if not….hit me in the comments section!

The importance of performing a hair assessment

2009-07-10T12:51:00.002-04:00

In my various travels in the land of hairboards, I’ve noticed a startling trend….that most people (even some veteran natural) don’t understand some of the basic scientific terms used to describe hair. Additionally, a lot of people (old and new) don’t understand how to correctly apply these terms to their own hair. This is where the importance of performing a hair assessment comes into play. Performing a hair assessment will not only help you to learn the basic characteristics of your hair, it will also help you understand what type of products might work best for your hair. This in my opinion is the single most important thing you can do for your hair to ensure that you meet your hair goals, no matter what they may be.

A hair assessment consists of observing the hair in multiple states (wet, damp and dry) to determine some basic physical properties of the hair. A hair assessment seeks to determine things like texture of the hair strands (fine, medium, coarse), the density of the hair (thin, medium, thick), the porosity of the hair, the presence or absence of a curl pattern, and a myriad of other things.

So today (and possibly this weekend if needed to clarify) I’ll be making several posts discussing:

1. How to perform a hair assessment
2. What do the results of the hair assessment mean
3. How to use the results of your hair assessment to help improve the health of your hair.

Sound good? Well….let’s get it rolling and I’ll back after lunch with the first post….How to perform a hair assessment.

ETA: I must apologize to all of you for promising to get the posts out this weekend on performing a hair assessment. This weekend was a hectic one, so I’m just getting a chance to make these posts. I hope you all enjoy!

The Look For Less: Pseudo Kinky Curly Curling Custard...same look for $3

2009-07-09T12:50:00.001-04:00

To refresh everyone’s memory, in this post, I obtained fabulous results that were remarkably similar to my past results achieved using Kinky Curly Curling Custard (KCCC). The product that I used as was….Smooth and Shine Curl Activator Gel (man I can’t fool ya’ll….lol).

Now, most folks have heard me RAVE about this product on various hair boards. From the low low price ($3), to the multiple day hair (I’m currently on day three and I know I can stretch it to 4) this product just can’t be beat! Now, I can sing this product’s praises until the cows come home, but I know that pictures are worth a thousand words.

Hair styled with KCCC (I think this is still damp)

Hair styled with Smooth and Shine (BTW...this is day THREE hair!):

Now, I’m not trying to dissuade all those folks that are loyal to KCCC to switch over, but given the fact that many people complain about long ship times, the product being out of stock so often and even the recent price increase, it’s always good to have a back up product that can deliver the same results, at a fraction of the cost! Not to mention, a lot of natural women want to have the option of using products they can obtain locally at just about any grocery and/or drug store, Sally’s, and just about every “urban” beauty supply store.

Now, a lot of people just can’t “get” with the thought of using a curl activator gel on their heads with out visions of the “soul glo” family from Coming to America coming to mind…lol. Well, rest assured, there are other similarly priced products that also deliver KCCC like results that are all priced under $10. Subscriber JazziJeni81 has gotten fantastic KCCC like results using Kiss My Face Upper Management Gel, which is priced at $8 at whole foods, and she also has gotten similar results using a Fantasia IC Gel ($5 almost everywhere) in a very simple mix she makes. Check out here posts on the HappyCurls hair boards (and while you’re there, join the site and participate in the discussions!).

I know there are several other products that ladies have used and gotten great KCCC like results with. So leave your favorite pseudo KCCC product in the comments section.

Natural hair and the gym: How to preserve wash and go hair styles

2009-07-08T15:42:00.000-04:00

I'm sure by now we’ve all seen the youtube video clip of the Chicago news anchor (Robin Robinson) that did the investigatory piece on how black women’s hair contributes to their lack of exercise. If not, then here is the link to watch the video:

Now….while this story focuses on why relaxed women don’t go to the gym, I’ve found that LOTS of loose natural ladies have some of the same concerns about going to the gym and how it will affect their hair. If you are like me, and you sweat BUCKETS at the gym…then this includes the scalp. So what’s a loose natural girl to do?

For some, the solution is easy…they wear twists and just rinse the twists daily after a gym workout. Now I must say, this does work EXTREMELY well. I would twist my hair every Sunday night, and when I left the gym, I would rinse them, toss in some leave in, and roll on out the door. It was HELLA simple, didn’t require a lot of time or me dragging a bunch of products to the gym. The only downside was that I got sooooo bored with my hair. Like seriously, I think I started going through withdrawal. I wore my hair strictly in twists for about 2-3 months…by month 1.5; I was fit to be tied! I’m sooo not a style maven, so my two little cute simple styles that I do with my twists were getting played. I was sick of doing them and I was sick of looking at them. I just felt sooo BLAH with them in constantly.

So I started back wearing my hair loose again. Originally, when I would go to the gym, I would just pull my hair back into a ponytail/puff and be done with it. But by the time I got through huffing and puffing and sweating, the puff had gone POOF! I knew that daily cowashing was NOT an option for me…my hair is extremely tangle prone and if you look at it wrong, will be covered in those dayum single strand knots on the ends. I needed to find a way to constrain my hair to keep it from turning into a poof, while also ensuring that my hair is able to achieve 2nd day hair. So here are some of my tips for preserving wash and go hair at the gym:

1) 1. Scarves are your friend! I tie my hair up with the $1 cotton scarves from the beauty Supply Store (BSS). Yes…I said cotton! The cotton helps absorb the excess sweat/moisture from your hair I know a lot of people think that wearing the scarves to the gym is hella ghetto. I go to the gym at 5:30am, and honestly, I’m doing good to have wiped the crust from my eyes and brush my teeth before I get there! Not to mention, my goal at the gym is singular….I’m trying to get my workout on, and roll out. I’m not socializing, or trying to pick up a dude (although there is this FINE brother with long locks that I make sure and smile at every chance I get!). Also, I’m in a very diverse neighborhood, so at my Bally’s the Hispanic and some of the Caucasian ladies are wearing scarves too.

2) Exposing the scalp helps the hair to sorta “air out” and avoids that stinky hair/scalp odor that can come from sweating a lot. This ties into the next tip

3) Instead of pulling the hair back into one ponytail/puff, try putting it into 2 or 4 if your hair isn’t long enough for just 2. Also, don’t leave the ends of the puff out….tuck them under (sorta like doing little individual buns)...like these pictures

4) After your workout, mist your scalp with a spritiz that includes rosemary EO, tea tree oil and/or peppermint EO. Doesn’t matter what your recipe is, adding any of those three essential oils will help to cut down on bacteria and fungus on your scalp…which is the primary cause of the funky smell.

When I get home from the gym in the morning, I’ll spritiz my scalp, then hop in the shower (with a shower cap) and then get dressed. By the time I’m dressed and ready to do my hair, it’s had a chance to dry a bit. I then just take down the little buns, fluff and go. Here is the result (btw...this is day two hair from this post yesterday)

So…that’s basically it. I wash every 2-3 days depending on my scalp. I workout on a 3-on/1-off/2-on/1-off cycle, so I try to make the “off” days my wash days (I don’t workout on Mondays and Fridays).

Q&A With Mala Rhodes, Owner/Founder/Creator of AfroVeda

2009-07-08T11:02:00.000-04:00

Yelp...that's right! I'll be interviewing the gracious Mala Rhodes, creator of one of my FAVORITE product lines...Afroveda, and I need YOUR help! I'll be sending Mala an interview guide with topics/questions that will be discussed and I want to make sure I ask her the questions that YOU want to know the answers to.

So, please leave your questions for Mala Rhodes in the comment section of this post. The questions can be about the products (usage/application/tips), about her inspiration for creating the line, anything you want!

Thanks ladies and stay tuned……

Wellness Wednesdays Series

2009-07-08T07:30:00.010-04:00

In the past few years, there has been an increasing movement towards using all natural and preservative free personal care products. For those of us with natural nappy, kinky, coily, and curly hair; it has become dayum near an obsession! Many of us (myself included) spend hours researching ingredient labels to see what "no-no" ingredient is included in a hair product before we buy it. I know I'll go in Target and spend 30-45 minutes in the hair aisle looking at what new conditioner is out, and comparing ingredients. Meanwhile, it takes me all of 20 minutes to purchase the rest of my groceries....and I KNOW I rarely look at the food labels.

Those of you that are familiar with me from the hairboards, know that I am on a personal mission to lose weight/get healthier. Since embarking on that journey (10lbs down…whooo hooo!), I've started paying attention to what I put in my mouth, and I'm starting to notice the benefits in more places that just the scale. I've been researching vitamin, mineral, and herbal supplements to ensure that I’m getting the necessary amounts of these things while on a reduced calorie diet. But what I've noticed is that I’m seeing a difference in my hair/skin/and nails as well. My hair is shedding a LOT less, my dryness issues are getting better, and my hair and nails are getting thicker.

This series is dedicated to examining what we put in our mouths and how it affects our hair. I'll cover a bunch of topics/questions that I've been asked about on various hairboards as well as stuff I'm learning along the way.

So....stay tuned for the first Wellness Wednesday topic on natural hair and the gym.

GREAT Hair day with a $3 product...YES it is possible!

2009-07-07T17:54:00.006-04:00

Guess what old product I dusted off and used this morning that left me with these great results....

Stay tuned for the "Get the look for less" series!!!!

Live Coverage of Michael Jackson Memorial

2009-07-07T12:43:00.002-04:00

Are you ladies watching? I'm stuck at work but I've got my door closed and my "conference call....do not distrub" sign up on the door. Kleenex on stand by.

Go to CNN....they are showing the processional now

http://www.cnn.com/

Drum Roll Please......and the winner is.......

2009-07-06T23:34:00.002-04:00

First, I want to thank everyone that has taken the time to stop by my blog and subscribe/follow. This means sooo much to me!

Ok...now cue the drum roll.....and the winner is Afrodite!!!!

Afrodite, please drop me an email with your contact information on where to send your prize.

Thanks again ladies!

Happy Birthday AfroVeda Sale!!!

2009-07-06T10:26:00.006-04:00

Ok....I told you all that I was a product junkie. Well...one of my FAVORITE product lines, AfroVeda is having a sale, so I had to pass the savings on to all of you...so see below!

_______________________________________________________________

To Our Special Guest,

I'm excited to let you know that AfroVeda is now 1 year old! Happy Birthday to us!! :-)

AfroVeda's products let you wash, detangle, moisturize, protect and style with Ayurvedic-inspired products that will keep your tresses feeling soft, moisturized and healthy!

To celebrate our birthday and thank you for joining our email list, I've included a store coupon in this email. You may use this coupon code as many times as you wish from now until July 15, 2009. Please feel free to forward this email to anyone who may be interested, to help me share the news.

Save 20%, Use coupon code: avbday09

Happy Shopping!
Mala Rhodes

________________________________________________________________

I've used several of Mala's products and I'm absolutely in LOVE with them! She's sooo nice and friendly and has GREAT customer service! I'm hoping to have an interview with her soon to post to the blog and I have SEVERAL reviews that I'll be posting in the coming days.

So what better way to introduce my blog to all of you than with a Product Give away! The 10th person to subscribe to my blog will get an 8oz container of my favorite AfroVeda product...Totally Twisted Almond Butter (which I'll be posting a review of tomorrow).

Stay tuned!

ETA: We're up to number 8....so will the next few subcribers/followers shoot me an email when you subscribe so I'll know who get's the prize.

nappy.curly.crown(at)gmail(dot)com.

Thanks!

Welcome to Naps, Kinks, Coils, and Curls!

2009-07-05T11:07:00.002-04:00

Thank you for taking the time and stopping by my blog.

My hope for this space is that it serves as an information repository for women (and gents) who desire healthy natural hair. I want every woman to embrace what the creator has blessed her with, without trying to make it into something that it is not. I want women to be ok with their hair…no matter if it naps, kinks, coils, curls or some awesome combination of the four!

The focus of this blog is natural hair; however a lot of the products, techniques, and information can be used by those that are relaxed/texturized and those that are transitioning from relaxed/texturized hair. I won’t be discussing relaxed/texturized hair directly because I am pro-natural hair. Now…let me explain this stance. A lot of people think that in order to be “pro” something…you must be “anti” its opposed position. This couldn’t be any farther from the truth. Dick Gregory a prominent comedian and activist of the 60's understood this concept when he used to say "I will not knock a steak out of your plate but I will never let you put a pork chop in mine" In other words, I don’t knock women who relax, but I won’t let anyone try and push a relaxer on me.

So…what do you have to look forward to by following this blog?

-Frank discussions on how to achieve and maintain healthy natural hair. No short cuts, no gimmicks, no get long hair in 72 hour schemes.
-An innovative way of presenting product reviews. *Please stay tuned for more on this one….I think you all will love this!*
-Encouragement and tips on how to bring out the best in your naps/kinks/coils/curls. Not everyone has definition, clumpage, or hair that grows down rather than out. And guess what? That’s perfectly ok! The trick having the best hair that YOU can have is learning what your hair can and can’t do…and working with it inside of those perimeters, not against it!

What won’t you see on this blog?

-Fashion information. I’m sooo not a fashionista. That’s not my forte so I won’t be venturing into that realm. Plus…there are LOTS of blogs that do this much better than I could ever hope to, so no sense in recreating the wheel!
-Length checks. I don’t do them. It’s not that I’m against them, but I feel like the current blogosphere is saturated with blogs that focus on obtaining toe length natural hair. The perimeters to gage healthy hair should include MORE than just the length…not to mention, not every person is destined to have such dramatic long hair.
-A focus on turning “kinks to coils”. I think that one is self explanatory.

So…if your still reading and think that this blog is a cool place to hang out or that it might have information that will help you along your journey…then please subscribe and I look forward to interacting with you!

Contact Info

2001-07-05T10:13:00.003-04:00

Want to contact me? Ask a question? Want more information on a product? Suggestions for things you want to see here?

Just drop me an email at Nappy.Curly.Crown (at) gmail (dot) com

Thanks!